Overview
This guide follows one creator demonstration of lubricating screw-in stabilizers on a Neo65 keyboard fitted with WS Morandi Linear switches and Hyekit Marshmallow keycaps. The aim is a quieter, less rattly stabilizer by brushing lubricant onto the inside walls of the housing and the contact points of the metal wire, then reassembling the board. Nothing here has been verified against external sources; the procedure, the lubricant grade, and the sound outcome all rest on a single video lead. Confirm every spec — board layout, stabilizer type, lubricant identity, and screwdriver size — against your own components before starting.
The clip does not show balancing the stabilizer wire, applying any specific lubricant quantity, or measuring a sound change. Treat those as questions to settle yourself before you treat the result as repeatable.
Tools & Materials
Item | Role in the shown mod | Specification / compatibility | Evidence / verification status |
|---|---|---|---|
Wire keycap puller | Remove keycaps from the switches | Not shown — verify on your board | Shown at 00:07 |
Switch puller (metal) | Extract switches from the plate and PCB | Not shown — verify on your board | Shown at 00:11 |
Precision screwdriver | Remove case screws and stabilizer screws | Not shown — verify on your board | Shown at 00:16; 00:37 |
Small paintbrush | Apply lubricant to housing walls and wire | Not shown — verify on your board | Shown at 00:54; 01:23 |
GPL 205G0 lubricant | Lubricate stabilizer housing inner walls and wire ends | Grade and jar label creator-stated only — not visually verified | On-screen text at 00:46 |
Neo65 keyboard (board being modified) | The host board being disassembled | Layout and mounting style not shown — verify on your board | Creator-stated, not shown |
WS Morandi Linear switches (installed) | The switches removed from the plate | Specs not shown — verify on your board | Creator-stated, not shown |
Hyekit Marshmallow keycaps (installed) | The keycaps removed and replaced | Profile and material not shown — verify on your board | Creator-stated, not shown |
Screw-in stabilizers | The components disassembled, lubricated, and reinstalled | Type and brand not shown — verify on your board | Creator-stated, not shown |
Step-by-Step
- Remove the keycaps with a wire keycap puller, working each cap straight up off its switch. *Shown at 00:07.*
- Pull the mechanical switches out with a metal switch puller. *Shown at 00:11.*
- Remove the screws from the back of the case with a screwdriver. *Shown at 00:16.*
- Open the case and unplug the internal JST cable to free the PCB assembly. *Shown at 00:22.*
- Remove the remaining switches from the PCB assembly so the stabilizers are fully exposed. *Shown at 00:27.*
- Unscrew the stabilizers from the back of the PCB. *Shown at 00:37.*
- Unclip the metal wire out of the plastic stabilizer housing, separating wire from housing and stem. *Shown at 00:46.*
- Brush a small amount of lubricant onto the three inner walls of the stabilizer housing only. *Shown at 00:54.*
Video: @kjj.builds on TikTok - Reinsert the plastic stem back into the lubricated housing, leaving the stem tips dry. *Shown at 01:14.*
- Brush lubricant onto both ends and the bends of the metal stabilizer wire, where it contacts the housing. *Shown at 01:23.*
- Clip the lubricated wire back into the assembled housing and stem so it seats firmly. *Shown at 01:33.*
- Place each assembled stabilizer back onto the PCB in its original position. *Shown at 01:38.*
Video: @kjj.builds on TikTok - Screw the stabilizers securely into the PCB from the back side. *Shown at 01:40.*
- Seat the PCB assembly into the case and replace the case screws to close the board. *Shown at 01:55.*
- Press the keycaps back onto their switches. *Shown at 02:06.*
The clip also shows a keypress at 00:01 and a typing pass at 02:12, plus a before/after comparison at 02:17–02:21. These are demonstrations of sound, not procedural steps, and do not establish a measured improvement.
Common Pitfalls
Caution from the creator: - At 01:20 the creator states that lubricating the tips of the stabilizer stems makes the keys feel "mushy." Apply lubricant to the housing inner walls only, not to the stem tips.
Questions the video does not answer — verify on your own board: - What size screwdriver fits the Neo65 case screws and the standard screw-in stabilizer screws? The clip shows a precision screwdriver but does not identify the size. *(Not shown; verify before use.)* - Are dielectric grease, XHT-BDZ, or other lubricants viable substitutes for GPL 205G0 here? The video names only GPL 205G0 and shows no comparison. *(Not shown; verify before use.)* - How should the stabilizer wire be balanced before lubrication? The creator does not demonstrate tuning or balancing, so accept whatever factory condition the wire is in, or stop and balance it yourself first. *(Not shown; verify before use.)* - Will the result be measurably quieter? The clip shows a subjective before/after sound comparison, not a measurement, so treat any acoustic outcome as unverified.
Sources
Video source
Original video — Scope: observed actions and visible labels; creator statements remain attributed, not independently verified.
External sources
No external sources with usable URLs were accepted.
Unverified
Specifications and claims not explicitly supported by the video or the cited passages remain unverified; this guide is not an independent hands-on test.